🚗 Drive Smart, Record Smarter!
The VIOFO A129 Duo is a cutting-edge dual lens dash cam that records in Full HD 1080P with a 140° wide angle, ensuring you capture every detail on the road. Featuring the advanced Sony Starvis image sensor for superior low-light performance, this dash cam also includes dual-band Wi-Fi for seamless smartphone connectivity, a 2.0" HD screen for instant playback, and essential safety features like G-Sensor and Parking Mode.
J**N
Awesome deal
The dashcam is very good quality.
R**R
Best Viofo camera By Far. Great Purchase. Installation Tips for those who like to DIY.
Hello.I've changed my Viofo A119 for this one, with the rear camera. It was the best upgrade so far.If you're looking for a inside-car dash camera, this is not the camera for you.Best features:With wifi 5Ghz, now downloads are way faster and instant.Rear camera is great. However doubles the storage usage. 128GB MicroSD is recommended. I'm using 64 right now and 2 files fill up quickly (front and rear).Viofo app is good an gives you a great range of options, being the best way to configure your dash camera before installing and after installation.Installation require some time and patience but stick to the manual and these tips and you'll be fine.NOTE: I'm not using motion detection and parking features and these other offline features, just dash cam with the power adapter upfront. If you know how to do it great, if not, ask your mechanic or car electrician in how to install these features.Camera is discreet and doesn't show much when looking from outside (check pictures). Microphone is very good (compared with other models).Remember:Front and Rear recordings limits quality on both: 1080p with 30FPS. 60FPS or higher only when recording exclusively from front camera. This can be customized from Setup menu.Tutorial for installation:FIRST THINGS FIRST:Configure the device prior to installation in your vehicle: wifi password, SSID and everything else. It's EASIER THIS WAY.Attach all cables as it would if installed in your car. This should be temporary: Just for testing and configuring purposes.IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember that the lenses are blocked by a black opaque adhesive.Remove it temporarily before turning it on, or else you're going to see black displays and you are going to be mad that you've got a broken camera and that's (probably) not true. :-)Use an regular USB at home (a MicroUSB cable with an iPad Charger will do the trick) to power on the device: And then:- update it's firmware. (Check viofo's website for the correct procedure)- Learn how to configure it via the phone app;- Learn basic functions, specially switching camera previews;- Add MicroSD card, format it (it can be the same you used to update the firmware);- Sync the Bluetooth Button (if you bought it) so it's preset;- Customize with your preferences.After all that setup:Go to your car.Bring everything that was in the box, and also a Screwdriver (medium size). It's not mandatory but it may be required.Remove all crap from your trunk so you have plenty of space to work the cables back there.I've installed mine in an apartment garage with cars close by and in the rear, so I Could check proximity with licence plates (you'll understand this in the rear camera comments below). Framing the rear camera needs a little more attention to detail.Now, for the procedure:Attach the front camera first.Make sure you pass the power cable for this camera right to left, through the front door and under the rubber band, and then behind the lower part of the steering wheel until it reaches the power adapter or USB adapter.If there is extra USB cable not being used, hide it below the driver framing above the pedals.Choose a spot right behind the center mirror. (Check my picture for reference). I usually choose the body of the camera to be behind the black sunblocker (or blue in some old car models) so It's difficult to be seen outside the car.Make sure that the center mirror will not block access to the USB ports that will be attached to the thick cable that goes to the rear camera.As the manual points out, the power goes directly to the GPS brick where the camera should fit.After that, for rear-camera configuration sake, attach the thick cabe and the rear camera for configuration (see rear camera comments below).NOTE: You can use the same cable if you have one already installed, as long as it's MINIUSB, not MICROUSB (will not fit). If in doubt: change the cables.NOTE: Change the power adapter. It's recommended that you use the one in the box. The prior one might have a lower power output, and this might compromise device functionality.Rear camera installation:I strongly recommend you install the front camera first and then attach the rear camera, use your Phone to check the back camera framing (that's why it's important to setup the camera and app at home first before installing in your car, you'll be able to learn all of this), and attach the thick cable in both cameras and power everything so you can check angles first.Usually many cars have those brown antifog stripes. That's why i Recommend checking angles before installing/attaching the rear camera, because the stripe will eventually appear in the camera feed, so you don't want it blocking the lower part of the lens, where you are supposed to see/record the licence plate.It's better to have the stripe in the upper part of the lens (car is far away anyway) then in the lower part (car is close by), in my humble opinion.When you find the right spot for the rear camera, also make sure that It will not hit anything else in your trunk during opening and closing;NOTE: You'll probably see the camera brick when looking at your center mirror, but it's not a dealbreaker, even if you center the camera in the back glass.NOTE: Cable should suffice for a small to medium car size. If you have a big SUV or a big SEDAN, make sure you plan the cable routing correctly beforehand.Remember that there are many ways to fit the cable through, some may be more difficult, others easier.My car was a Honda FIT Model, it's considered a Small car for US Standards.Use the plastic plier that comes with the box to help you with this process. If you're not getting the result you want, use a medium Screwdriver to help you.In my case, I've passed the cable up the roof, right door, then the lower part of the right door, then up to the roof again, and then to the rear of the roof until the camera (that was already tested, framed and attached to the rear glass).Those are the tips that I have. Hope you like them.I'm very satisfied with Viofo. Hope you will be too.
M**L
Design not compatible with usage.
I bought into the hype of "Its great for its price." Well $170 ($185 if you purchase the hardwire kit to take advantage of the parking mode, plus $10+ for a microSD, so let's just say $200) is still pricey for a Dash Cam that's lacking in many areas.First off, the cable they provide to connect the rear camera is very thick and the connectors are large. The side the connects the rear camera is a straight connection, which limits high up you can mount it on the window because the connector pokes into the roof liner. I had intended on installing this in my Nissan Titan, the titan has a (motorized) sliding rear center window. If I was to mount it on the window, I would either a) not be able to use the window or b) have to leave some of the cable dangling so that the window could still roll down but they I would have this janky looking cable just hanging. There is a small strip at the top (that the window rolls up into) that the mount for the rear camera fits perfectly one, but because of the overside straight connector, I was not able to mount it. Routing the cable was a pain in the butt, it cause my roof liner to gap because of the thickness of the cable; I can stick a pinky between the top of the liner and the actual roof now. And because the cable is so thick, its hard to hide any extra cable. Granted I attempted installing into a truck (full size rear seating), but there would still be extra cable if I was to install it into my car. The connection at the camera is angled, and they used a proprietary connection type, so if you wanted to use a straight connection adaptor then you're basically out of luck. I'd have to spend more if I want to get that angled connection in the rear.The app for this dash cam is complete crap. It was a pain to get the thing to connect. It gives you some basic instructions, but when it asks you to connect to the dash cams WiFi it opens the settings for the app itself, instead of opening the iOS settings to the WiFi section. I didn't see an option in the app anywhere to change the WiFi SSID or Password (so hopefully its not the same default password on every camera.) The app kept telling me to connect to the Wifi, which I already was. I finally just force closed the app, and it worked after 2 attempts.Once I finally got the app to recognize that I was connected to the Dash Cams wifi, I was going to use the "Live View" to properly position the dash cam. Well the Live View doesn't work; At least not on an iPhone XS Max, or an iPad Pro 12.9 (3rd) [Sidenote: There is no "iPad" version of the app, so you'll get the iPhone version scaled up which looks like crap. Being that most everybody has a tablet these days, and many people take them with them to work or wherever, why wouldn't the be a tablet version? It doesn't take that much extra time to develop.]The camera supposedly has 2 Wifi Bands, so why is there not an option to have one of them connect to my home or work wifi when its within range, so that when my mobile devices are connected to the same network I can then access the camera from the app, then use the other band for when out and about to create an AP.The power cable (not the hardwire kit) is the same bulky straight connector thats on the rear camera. This means I couldn't mount it flush under my rearview mirror to have it centered, instead I had to mount it to the right a little. I got the GPS version, so idk if the non-gps version comes with a different cable or not. But I hope it would, otherwise you'll have the long straight connector sticking out the side of the camera. They should have provided both options instead of a stupid stubby little USB cable to connect to a computer.They put the microSD card slot on the opposite side of the camera from how it detaches from the mounting base, so when you push the card in, or push to remove the card, its pops the camera of the mounting base. And when you have this thing mounted behind your mirror, its not easy to line up the camera with the mount to reattach them.Now on to video quality.. Quality is "meh." It's not great, but it's not the worse I've seen. Sub $50 home security cameras have equal or better video quality. And face it, that's all these "Dash Cams" are - security cameras mounted into a car. They all come with the camera, a power wire, etc. The only difference is that one has GPS (which does not cost $150.)You could buy like 10 of the WyzeCams, for the overall price of this Dash Cam. Then glue one WyzeCam to every window in your car, and have 360 degree security. Video quality is gonna be less, but at least you got every angle of your vehicle covered..The video from the rear camera at night is pretty terrible unless you are driving in downtown with a street light every 10 feet, and no cars around you. Its very grainy, and the glare from the headlights from the vehicles behind you make the footage almost use less. Similar on the front, but thats because most of the time traffic from the front is moving opposite of you, but the glare is still seen. - You could buy a CPL filter, which is more money needed to be spent.The G-Sensor doesn't seem to work very well; might have just been my unit was faulty. But I enabled the setting, then shock my truck, stood on the running boards and jumped up and down, knocked on the windshield, and not once did the camera alert that it detected anything; and no footage was stored. It did however make one alert, but thats just because I accidentally knocked the camera off the mount when I was trying to adjust my review mirror. - All this testing was with the sensitivity set to "high."Now the day time footage is pretty good; not fantastic, but pretty good. But this doesn't make up for all the other issues I have with the product/parts. There is still a bit of graininess but nothing extreme.Being just the beginning of 2019, I'm sure more options for Dash Cams will be coming soon. I should have waited to see what else was going to pop up over the next couple months, but the one I already had (A119) in my truck stopped working all together so I needed to replace it with something.Now as far as the seller, idk if they opened the box to remove items, swap out items or what (since I bought the GPS logger version, yet the box it all came in says "GPS (Optional)" just just like the CPL Filter and Bluetooth Remote (but I didn't get any of that in the box) because there was a card in the box from the seller, which I'm pretty sure the manufacturer would not have put in there. Nor was the devices box sealed.
S**E
Works great with simple installation!
*Update, I have finally gotten around to installing the 3 wire hardware kit that I purchased from VIOFO site.*I bought this 2 channel cam to replace my 2 cam setup that I had in my 2007 Toyota Highlander. How I installed the camera and general experience. The box the VIOFO A129 Duo is packaged in is pretty sound and is very much like a Galaxy S7 box. Inside the box the cameras are encased in an ample amount of foam padding, the Gps is the front camera mount, 2 extra sets of cut to fit 3m mounting pads, necessary cables that are clearly labeled, adhesive cable support clips, directions for camera setup and basic installation, 12/24 volt 3 amp accessory power adapter (it will charge your phone ridiculously fast but be careful not many devices are rated to handle 3 amps) ect.I first plugged the camera into my computer to supply power while I played with the menu and set the camera up. The menu is very similar to other camera's so finding the reformat option was simple enough, your going to want to do that first. I set the camera to loop in 3 min segments and didn't adjust video quality or effects. I will be using the GPS but decided to remove the M.P.H time stamp. Keep in mind to turn the WiFi off when you're not actually accessing it with your phone which causes unnecessary strain on the processor especially if you live in a HOT environment. If you have a smaller SD card or want smaller file sizes adjust the video to 720p. The video the camera captures is pretty impressive and the picture is pretty decent in low light conditions.I downloaded and installed the app for my galaxy s7 but I could not get it to work. however, my attempt to pair the phone with the camera wasn't really sweat inducing and I haven't tried again. I will say that the buttons on the camera do not work when you have the WiFi on. I Turned the "button press" and not recording beeping alert off, the beep will get old quickly.Before you tear open all the little bags and undo accompanying twist ties formulate a plan of how you plan on running the cables mounting the cameras and available 12/24 volt outlet. Now that you have a plan you want to mount the camera out of the line of sight and as nearest to the center line of the window but not in the factory tint at the top of the wind shield( avoiding tint was a warning in the instruction manual ) which brings you to the review mirror. When you decide you have a good spot by the mirror make sure you thoroughly clean the area and go ahead and plug the power cable into the GPS mount and rear power/video cable into the camera to make sure there's enough room for you to remove the plugs( even if you don't plan on powering it through the GPS, I still recommend allowing room because those adhesive pads are a 'expletive' to remove )When you dig out all of the camera accessories out the first thing you will notice just like 90% of reviewers did is that the rear camera cable is ridiculously thick(Bic pen-ish). If you're installing this camera in an SUV your only option to hide the rear camera cable is up or don't hide it at all and use the provided clips. I ran the rear camera cable vertically to the headliner then tucking it up under the headliner along the windshield heading toward the passenger side. Popping the A pillar cover off allowed me to work the cable around the corner to the door frame. Once I got to the passenger side I pulled the door gasket down exposing the edge of the roof liner tucking the cable in heading to the rear. When you get to the B, C, D pillars you will have to pop them out just like you did the A pillar. I then ran the cable back to center of the roof line along the rear hatch. Where the hinges are on the rear hatch you should have a rubber conduit that the manufacturer ran the power cables for the rear lights, wipers, defrost, ect. allowing you to run the cable discretely through it. I ran the camera cable through two gaskets where a conduit would have been. NOTE: If you have side curtain airbags make sure that you push the cable in past them and do not crisscross the cable over them.The 3 wire hardware kit sold by VIOFO installation is fairly underwhelming. The diameter of the power cable is of resonable size but it's long enough to hang a snake! The little over 12ft cable comes with 90° usb plug for the camera, a (red//bare) power, (yellow/bare) Acc, (black/spade connector) ground wires for the source and it has a 4 position Batt. voltage monitor(2xAdd a Circuit).Honestly it's just as easy as installing the video camera; the one exception is hooking up the Add a Circuit. I chose the Rear Wiper for (acc/yellow), Acc 12PWR (power/red) and I attached the ground right to the bolt that allowed me a tiny bit more access to the panel. They decided it would be wise to include on the cord a ferrite bead 6 inches from the camera. The bead adds some weight and makes it more tough to disguise the power cord in your headliner when the weight of it keeps dragging it down. My solution was to wrap the bead in adhesive Velcro and attached a small spot on my windshield (will it work I dunno, its what I had on hand). I decided to mount the voltage selection on the backside of the dash 1. so I don't have to hear it jingle jangle 2. so the voltage option does not get changed accidentally.All in all I'm happy with the cameras and other than some patients and learning your vehicle
A**A
Worked well
Worked great. Lasted 2 years which was expecting a longer life but, nothing can last forever.
R**D
A fair and honest review
I ordered the A129 Duo through the recommendation of the dashcam subreddit. This was listed as one of the best budget dual cameras and was packed with features I was looking for.The box came with the following:- Front Camera (GPS plate already attached)- Rear Camera- 10ft~ Mini USB cable to power the front GPS mount and camera- 10 - 15ft Mini USB cable to connect the rear facing camera to the front. The connector to the front camera is sat at a 90 degree angleCigarette Lighter Power adaptor (2x USB)Trim Removal Tool4x Black cable clipsReplacement double-sided tape for the cameras***INSTALLATION***My opinion on the installation is based on my vehicle, the 2016 Honda HR-V. You may have a better experience than me, depending on the vehicle the camera is being installed in to.Installing the cameras to the glass was simple. I found the best way to identify the optimal placement was to power the camera and connect to it through the VIOFO app. From here, you can press the camera against the glass and figure out the best spot. I then removed the double sided tape on the other side of the camera and pressed against the glass for a good 30 seconds.It would be great if VIOFO provided alcohol wipes to ensure the mounting surface is clean and dust-free, but it's not totally necessary.Running the cables to the power source and rear camera is where things started to get frustrating. Unfortunately, my vehicle doesn't have the most removable of trims, so I was forced to run the cables down the passenger side pillar and down the side of the dash. This was all well and good but I very quickly ran out of clips to keep it tidy.VIOFO - PLEASE PROVIDE MORE CLIPS IN FUTURE! 4 is great for a single camera setup but nowhere near enough for both front and rear! I have placed an order for a pack of 40 at $15CAD, so keep this in mind when planning out the cable run.One final not, I ended up reversing the rear camera cable. I had to install the 90 degree side of the cable in to the rear camera as opposed to the front. This was because the rear camera port is at the top, and it was too close to the trim. The connection in to the front camera isn't as tidy, but it's not too bad.THE CAMERA DOES ALSO NOT COME WITH A MICRO-SD CARD, YOU WILL NEED TO ORDER THIS SEPARATELY!***CAMERA QUALITY***I will be testing this over the next week and will update the review in due course :)
Trustpilot
1 month ago
1 month ago