Minwax 35555000 Polycrylic Protective Finish Spray for Wood, Clear Gloss, 11.5 oz. Aerosol Can

Works great. I think some of the reviews about the nozzle sputtering are from folks who might not know that you have to care for the nozzle. First off, NEVER spray any new can of finish on a project without testing it. This stuff dries quickly, so it may have dried in the nozzle, causing sputters. I didn't experience any problems, but here's the proper way to avoid them:1) shake the can of course... be vigorous and take some time if it's a new can. Do it until your arm starts to feel it.2) Before you use it on an actual piece, do some tests on similar scrap wood (this is finishing 101 level stuff). If it spittles, then you know you have to do the next step before actually using it.3) hold the can upside down, and spray until nothing comes out. There's a straw inside the can that draws from the bottom of the can (so turning it upside down leaves a pocket of propellant that the nozzle draws on to clear the nozzle. Doing this clears the entire spray path.4) use a wet q-tip to quickly clean the nozzle. Acrylic dries quickly, so have the damp q-tip ready beforehand.5) test again, and then use it on your final piece.6) do steps 2-4 with every use., and maybe even soak the nozzle in very hot water if it acts up (like 190º, just shy of boiling).All that said, water-based finishes are some of the hardest to apply because they dry so fast and once dry are very resistant (okay, nearly impossible) to bring back to a liquid state... much more difficult than oil finishes. They have some amazing properties though, and are generally lightweight, which is important in some applications.There is a middle-ground here, which I prefer as a first coat no matter what the final coat may be. That would be shellac, an alcohol-based finish that is friendly to both water and oil finishes. You can thin it and spray it, but please not indoors, or at least without a cartridge-style mask with the proper cartridges *and* an air flow through wherever you may be spraying it ( <— good advicw with any finish). If you get into it, you can buy shellac flakes in several grades of purity and color, then mix it with alcohol as needed.

if the spray opening clogs up the spray becomes uneven

Great for crafts

Spray is directed in a vertical line. But it oddly works very well. Used to seal my cured acrylic paintings, nice glassy gloss does not hide my textural effect. My art looks more valuable now with this finish applied after several thin coats.

Perfect sealer for art work

I was apprehensive after reading some users complain about excessive foaming. I followed the instructions to the letter, and have now now used almost the entire can. The very small amount of foam I encountered was smaller than a raindrop. I lightly touched those spots with my (gloved) fingertip. And after drying, no marks are visible. I find this minute inconvenience outweighed by the absence of brush marks left behind when I have used Minwax Polycrylic in a can, and applied with a paintbrush. Others may be sufficiently skilled to avoid leaving brush marks when working with an unever surface. I'm not.

Used this water base sealer on large gas airplane where the film is breaking down. Cures crystal clear and very durable.

This product has really cut down my production time and use of materials to seal my products. Many reviews on here have stated that the can "sputters" and does not spray evenly. I have had no issues and have purchased many many cans from this listing. After each spray you need to turn the can upside down and spray until the nozzle is clear. This keeps it free and clean for the next spray. (this is normal procedure for any and all spray cans) I live in Texas, and my cans are stored in the garage and used in there as well, even in this summer heat have had no issues.