Sioux ChiefPVC Flange Repair Kit (866-34PPK)

I’m not a plumber but I’ve set 5 toilets in the last six months and seen the good, the bad and the ugly with closet flanges, supply lines, leaking shut off valves, no subfloor to screw into and out of level floors.The last toilet was the worst. The flange was destroyed, there was very little subfloor to screw into (did the plumber really need to cut an 8” hole for a 4” pipe?).The most important thing I’ve learned is that the flange needs to securely mounted and level to the finished floor. This can be a challenge because typically the flange is attached to a pipe that is not vertical (because the horizontal pipe that the 90 degree coupling is attached to is not horizontal because it is pitched to drain).This where the Sioux Chief kit really works it’s magic. Because the flange has three sealing rings and does not need to be glued in, there is some flexibility to adjust the flange to the floor. Depending on how your broken flange is attached, you may have to cut and chisel it out - it’s a miserable job but look on YouTube, there are some very helpful videos.The other great feature of the flange is the number of holes there are to attach it to the floor and two sets of slots for the closet bolts. This gives you a lot of options for screwing into the subfloor.The other components in the kit are useful, although the rubber shims to level the toilet are a little too soft IMO. In the end, the flange needs to be secure and level, and the toilet needs to be secured to the flange and the floor. It seems to me that many of the cracked flanges are likely due to toilets that “rock” and put stress on the flange.I also spend a lot of time to make sure the toilet is solid to the floor. I use plastic shims I’ve made out of old credit cards and other hard thin plastic scraps. Once all the shims are set (just inside the toilet perimeter so it won’t show after caulking).The last step is using a high grade bath and kitchen caulk around the toilet base. Although I had a plumber tell me that he rarely did this. For me it’s one additional step to help make sure the toilet and the shims stay put. Sure, caulk will not make up for other problems but this has worked for me.I called a plumber for a quote and was told to set a toilet: $175. To replace a closet flange: $225. It’s a nasty job and you’re on your knees for a couple of hours but for $400, it’s misery well spent.

Overall measurement from top to bottom is 4".It is 3.5" from bottom of flange to end of pipe drop. Thus, 3.5" maximum depth from top of finished floor, and the waste line needs to rise to 2.25" from the finished floor to get all three gaskets inside the waste line (actually, at 2.25" the third gasket is touching the waste line, but is not inside it).The flange has lots of hold-down screw location holes, so, if you have bits of old screws embedded in the floor, you have places to position new ones.This has no moveable ring, but the connection with the waste line is rubber gaskets, not glued, so the flange can be rotated after sliding it into the waste line, before screwing it down to the floor.

I feel like this, even with shipping costs, is a great value. Combined, at the local hardware store, I'd have to pay about $35 or so (and deal with their often B-squad staff) to get the same/similar stuff. Mine came with a legitimate Sioux Chief wax ring (wax was white in color); the pictured flange (all plastic, no metal) which is perfectly fine for my application; the Sioux Chief nylon closet bolts, for which I promptly lost one of the bolts for after putting the toilet onto the ring... of course; and also a couple of shims, which because I tile like a boss (i.e., got lucky) I did not need. Plus, the box that all of these bits came in happened to be the perfect size for mailing out something I sold on that terrible auction website! Boom.

Works exactly as intended.I have an old 4" rough-in for the toilet and I needed a solid adapter for the new toilet in my basement. Installed like a charm and took about 15 minutes with the drilling into the concrete for the toilet bolts. The flange kit felt solid and hasn't been a problem for the past two months of use.We'll see how it holds up over time, but for now it's absolutely solid!

3 minute install. Great price. Worked great and continues to. I highly recommend this flange if you need this type of repair.

Worked just as expected. My bathroom floor is tile. Had to put shims around toilet to keep stable but problem has been solved

Fit the 4" sewer line where I was installing a new stool

When adding new flooring in the bathroom the sewer flange is at the wrong height. This slick products works PERFECT!😜