The caseta wireless in-wall dimmer Pro communicates with Pico remote controls and Lutron smart bridge or smart bridge Pro via radio frequency).the caseta wireless in-wall dimmer Pro communicates with Lutron radio power savrtm occupancy and vacancy sensors in a standalone application. Sensors do not work with smart bridge or smart bridge Pro.The caseta wireless in-wall dimmer Pro must be located within 60ft (18M) line-of-sight or 30ft (9M) through walls, of Pico remote controls and smart bridge or smart bridge Pro
A**R
4-way installation and kept a toggle switch.
Fantastic.This product achieved exactly what I wanted it to accomplish for my 4 way application (two, 3-way switches and one 4-way switch).1. I wanted to keep one regular toggle switch in the circuit.2. Integrate with Siri and be able to dim to an exact percentage ("Siri, dim the family room light to 10%).3. Use the table-top remote or the Lutron appI found the installation to be straight-forward but the wiring was not routine due to the 4 way application and the fact that I wanted to keep one 3-way toggle in the circuit. Keeping one 3-way toggle switch made this a more difficult wiring job:1. I first found the 4-way switch. If you have 3 switches to a fixture, there will be a 4-way switch in there somewhere. The 4-way switch will have 4 wires going to it (the load wire to and from and the traveler wire to and from).2. I then removed the 4-way switch entirely and wire nutted the same colored wires together. This essentially takes your 4-way application back down to a 3-way application. I used the Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Wallplate Bracket adapter and a Pico remote over the gang box to replace the 4-way switch.3. I then replaced one of the 3-way toggle switches with this Caseta Pro In Wall Dimmer. Keep in mind that what distinguishes the Caseta from the Caseta Pro is the ability to do 3-way applications. Also keep in mind that the Caseta Pro dimmers do NOT require the Caseta Pro Bridge. You only need the Caseta Pro Bridge if you want to use your remotes to control products from select other manufacturers like Hunter Douglas shades, etc.This part of the installation requires you find the neutral wire and figure out which black wire is the line (hot) wire from the breaker box and which is the load wire that goes to your fixture. I just assumed that the black wire in the same romex jacket as the red traveler wire was the load. The instructions you will need to follow are on the Lutron website. Just google Caseta 3-way and select the PDF that is listed. On page 15 is "3-Way Installation - Caséta Wireless In-Wall Switch with Mechanical Toggle Switch". The instructions are pretty good but if you get in a bind, the Lutron customer service is absolutely incredible. I had never used a jumper cable before but I needed to call for clarification for the next step. I got connected to US-based tech support and they were absolutely incredible. I never felt like I needed to be a master electrician to understand what I was being told...and this install is probably as complicated as it gets.4. In order to keep your existing toggle switch, you will need to use the included yellow jumper cable to modify wiring for existing toggle switch. I needed to wire nut both wires on the same side of the different color screw to the yellow cable and connect the other end of the yellow cable to the different color screw. On my switch, the different color screw was black. I then had to take the wire from the other side of the switch and move it to the screw on the same side as the black screw (just the other screw...not the black one).5. Everything worked when powered on. I then programmed the Pico remote over top the previously removed 4-way switch and I was done.I recommend you use the Lutron app to pair the Pico remotes. The iPhone app works well. Also, when using the toggle switch to turn off the lights, they will dim to off over a few seconds similar to hitting the button on the remote. That was a little surprising as the 3 and 4-way toggle switches before the Caseta installation shut off the lights immediately. I guess I thought that the remaining toggle would operate the same way but it operates more like turning the lights off with the Caseta wall switch or Pico remote...fade to off.One other thing I needed to do was adjust the "low-end" trim. Low-end trim is important if you use LED lights that may turn off or flicker if you dim them down too low. To adjust the low-end trim on the Caseta, hold the "ON" button and "Dim down" buttons on the wall switch for 6 seconds until the LED flashes, then adjust the dimming level until the lights are at their lowest without flickering or turning off. This may take a bit of back and forth with the dim up and dim down buttons. After you have achieved the dimming level you want, hold the "Off" button until the LEDs stop flashing.Very happy with this product. My only suggestion is that they integrate with the SmartThings Hub.1/17 Update: SmartThings integration coming soon according to the Lutron website. Yay.4/17 Update: Really enjoying the SmartThings integration and Amazon Echo integration: 'Alexa, turn on the family room ceiling fan' or 'Alexa, dim the family room lights to 10%'. Very nice.
T**.
Harder to install than the non-pro version
This thing is great. I am fairly good at minor electrical work like this and I have outfitted my house with non-pro versions of the Caseta dimmers and switches everywhere. I needed the pro version for a large chandelier light that exceeds the wattage limitations of the non-pro one, even though it's running LED bulbs at the moment and would probably be okay, I really wanted it to be "to code".I also thought it would be interesting to wire it in a three-way configuration with a normal switch while I was at it and since the pro version supports 3-way switching. After I tried that, though, I decided, that I didn't like not having a dimmer at the other switch location and use this as a 2-way switch and put some more Pico remotes at the other locations.But even then, it's a lot more work than the non-pro one is. I was surprised because I thought it would just be maintaining the right polarity, but it turned out that connecting the neutral also required splicing a bunch of neutrals together and it added so many connections to the box that I'm not 100% sure that it's wired to code now. I'd definitely say that if you can use the non-pro one, do it. It's like that one extra wire adds a bunch of overhead where you wind up doing pigtails and things to try to make it all fit.Still rating 5-stars as the product is great and as advertised.
J**!
Makes more stuff possible
The 2-wire version sold in stores is good if your bulb draws enough idle current and your switch boxes absolutely don't have neutral (using the ground as a neutral will trip arc-fault breakers and presents a mild fire hazard). It's also cheaper. However, the "PRO" version is a more capable product if you have a neutral. This dimmer will always come on even if the bulb doesn't. It also allows existing 3-ways and 4-ways to act as triggers through use of a fourth (blue) wire. It takes a bit of wire nutting, but basically you use one traveler to carry constant hot and the other to carry a 3-way'd toggled hot back to the blue wire. If the state of this blue wire changes, then the dimmer toggles the opposite way. NotThe only problem I have with all this expense and rewiring is that Lutron has 3 tiers of home automation which don't necessarily talk to each other. You might end up ripping it all out again should you choose RadioRa2 or QS later.
A**E
Best Dimmer Switch to solve "Ghosting" problem with LED lights
I was remodelling my kitchen and used the Lutron Casetta PD-6WCL with 2 PICO remote. My existing set up was two 3 way switches with a 4 way switch in the middle controlling my ceiling light. I switched the ceiling lights to LED can lights and used the Casetta dimmer on the first 3 way switch and connected the 4 way and the subsequent 3 way in series to essentially make it a single pole switch. My biggest problem was that after i turn off the lights, the LED dont completely shut off. It looks like the dimmer still passed some low voltage current to keep it functioning so that it can receive signals from PICO remote and this was enough for the LED's to pick up and they were still very mildly lit. This was called "Ghosting". After extensive research on google, my choice was either swap out one of my LED's with an halogen light or add another can light or accent light with halogen or find way to bypass this low voltage from the switch. Luckily I found that my existing electrical connection still had a neutral wire (white wire) in it. So i went ahead and ordered the PRO version in Amazon (its $20 more than the P6 version). I connected the neutral wire and voila !!! the ghosting is gone. So if you are in the same boat as me, go ahead and order this switch. It will saw you a ton of headaches with the annoying ghosting problem. If unfortunately your wiring does NOT have a neutral (i cant seem any reason why) then adding a small voltage halogen bulb or a can light to the existing circuit will do the trick. Good luck
A**R
Get this for three way switches. Nothing else.
This thing saved my as*. Who knew you needed a special three way switch compatible lutron caseta dimmer switch. The folks at Lowe's don't have a clue. Made me think there were special instructions to turn the regular two way switch compatible with three way setting, but it's only by bricking one switch and turning it into a pico reMote switch. That was misleading. Major retailers need some education. I don't think you could wire this properly for a four-way switch though...
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
1 month ago