BACOENG 1/2" DC12V Brass 2 Port Motorized Ball Valve, Electric Ball Valve NPT CR02

Wow, what an amazing novelty. It took me forever to find this. Valves like this are actually OEM'd from a company in China, KLD, and come in various sizes and with various features. BACOENG was the only supplier that I found to supply the two-way, 3-wire 12v DC valve that I wanted, aside from ordering it on Aliexpress, which was just too shady for me. This model is the KLD20S.Now, to my application and the actual function of the device. I am DIY'ing a water shutoff system for my finished basement. My basement flooded four years ago, and I will do everything in my power to mitigate water damage to my $20k remodel job. I searched the internet for dozens of hours and stumbled upon an automatic ball valve at a smart home website, but they wanted $100 for one valve. I noted the label on their valve and immediately googled the model number and came up with the KLD website. I plugged that into amazon, but got nothing. So then I finally searched for "motorized ball valve" and got this in the results. Success!Since this requires 12vDC, I ordered a CCTV power supply distribution box with 4 ports. I also ordered 100ft of 18/2 wire (red+white A/C compressor wire), a couple of single gang handy boxes, and some 12v momentary press switches.As you can see in the pictures, I hooked up the valve to my water heater. I connected the power open lead to the momentary press switch. The power close lead is connected to a water sensor. The valve works flawlessly. Water closes the circuit on the water sensor pad, activating the power close lead on this valve. It closes in ~3 seconds. It completely shuts off the water, resulting in no hot pressure in my pex system. Don't really need an alarm because it'll be pretty obvious if there's no pressure. All I have to do is then press and hold the momentary switch to open the valve - another ~3 seconds.As far as installation, just attach some 3/4" NPT sharkbite fittings with prodope. I ran conduit down next to the water heater for a clean install look, but you really could just zip tie the wire to your water line.All in all I have 4 of these, 1 3/4" for my water heater, 1 1/2" for my washing machine cold line, 1 1/2" for my Saniflo toilet, and 1 1/2" for my bathroom sink cold line. The sensors at the washing machine and bathroom sink are also wired into the 3/4" valve, so both hot and cold close.My next step is to test this setup with an arduino, so instead of the water sensor passing voltage (which with the sensors I have tends to be hit or miss - not quite good enough conductivity), the arduino would be sensing voltage (+3v~+12v) from the sensor and then close the water heater valve with its own full +12v power output.THANK YOU BACOENG FOR SUPPLYING THIS VALVE!!!!UPDATE 6/27/2016: So after approximately 6 months in service, my DIY water mitigation system has saved my [BACOn] three times. This valve (all 4 of my valves) have all worked flawlessly. The best story by far was when I was taking a shower, I heard a "thump" and about 5 seconds later the water just shut off. Mildly irritated (and totally forgetting I had these valves in place), I toweled up (don't need to scar my children for life) and went downstairs. Turns out my bathtub drain decided to fall apart (yay) and was dumping water all over the basement floor (double yay), the part of the floor where....drum roll....my sensors were placed! The water on the sensor pad closed the circuit and closed the 3/4" valve on my water heater, thereby turning off my delightfully scalding-hot shower and saving my basement from certain doom. Vindication from all of the people who balked, "You're being OCD." (ironically, I have OCD, so I am literally OCD about everything!)Material list for my project: EVERTECH 4 Channel 3 Ampere PTC FUSE CCTV DVR Security Camera Metal Power Supply Box uxcell® OFF-(ON) NO 19mm Metal Momentary Push Button Switch 2 Screw Terminals 2A 36V DC Floodstop Individual Water Appliance Additional Water Sensor XS-01 SharkBite U134LFA 3/4-Inch by 3/4-Inch MNPT SharkBite Lead Free Straight Connector SharkBite U120LFA 1/2-Inch by 1/2-Inch MNPT SharkBite Lead Free Straight Connector 1 x BACOENG 3/4" Stainless Steel NPT CR023 x BACOENG 1/2" Stainless Steel NPT CR02

Wow! Compared to the rubbish DIGITEN Solenoid valves, the difference is like night and day. The BACOENG ball valves are sturdily built, and they do the job. You don't need to worry about if your valve is open or closed, as it will do so regardless of if there is any line pressure (an issue with the DIGITENs). The quality metal components of the BACOENGs also give you peace of mind about interfacing them with full-pressure water lines (unlike the flimsy plastic housing of the DIGITENs). The only thing to watch out for-- as others in the comments have mentioned-- is that you must limit the current. I chose to use a power supply with a limited current rather than use a resistor for the sake of efficiency. Just know that they won't function if the current is too high. The first power supply I used had too much current, but fortunately it didn't damage anything: it just wouldn't turn on. Switching to the lower-current supply did the trick. Another thing: you CAN use these with a relay board (to interface with a Raspberry Pi or Arduino) despite the three wires. I highly recommend these for any project!

BACOENG 3/4" Stainless Steel NPT 2 Port DC12V Three Wire Control Motorized Ball ValveI have purchased several and they work fine. There is a motor direction switching relay built in. The relay is always operated when the “open” direction (red wire) is energized. Here are the 12v dc currents I read:Closed to Open, moving – red wire energized - 45 mA.Open end of travel, static – red wire energized - 20 mA. Motor disconnected and just the relay drawing current.Open to closed, moving – blue wire energized – 25 mA.Closed end of travel, static - blue wire energized – 0 mA. Motor disconnectedNotice that the open port on this valve is small. A ¾” full flow ball valve would have a port diameter of 19.05 mm. The information, “Brass Orifice Size: 15mm, Reduced Bore Actuator” is placed prominently in the product details, so it shouldn’t be a surprise.

Purchased 3/4" SS model. Works very well. Takes about 4 seconds to go to fully open or fully closed. Yellow wire is negative, red is open and blue is closed and will be connected to the positive side of a battery or 12V DC power supply. A simple double throw switch can easily handle the job. Once it opens or closes, the motor shuts off. I am using 8 AA batteries in series that can easily operate this 12 volt valve. Since it is only used in the winter at a cabin to shut off water, the batteries I suspect will work for years. If you need a drain for your plumbing, a second valve on a tee wired to this valve but with blue tied to red and red to blue will operate the 2 valves exactly opposite of each other. Closing one and opening the other. Motor rating is 4 watts.

Purchased and delivered in September, but installed just after 30 day return time. Installed well, small conductors made a challenge to get connected and accounted for first failure. In all the valve worked less than 20 cycles, and now is stuck closed making a clicking noise when attempting to open. Failed for our application controlling a spray bar.

The valve would close, but it would not open. Will attempt to return it.