ATLIN Cabinet Scraper Card Set - Curved 3pc

3 handy shapes, good sizes and shapes for general work. They come in a handy plastic storage pouch. The scrapers are easily reshaped if something special is needed.Absolutely DO clean them up, remove the factory edge, stone and polish out the edges dead square and flat with square corners THEN re-burnish slowly and get the burr as even as possible.A Dremel with a fine stone held square does a nice job removing the factory (or old edge) and squaring the blank. Use the largest diameter stone possible and keep it moving. Don't let it cut a depression in the edge of the steel. Just grind perpendicular to the scrapers surface slowly until the burr is gone. Don't tip the grinder to chamfer the burr off, you need to leave perfect 90 degree corners on the blank.Once the Dremel gets most of the old burr off, switch to a fine hand held stone (Natural, Ceramic or diamond) and get the edge square and smooth as possible. Then clamp the scraper firmly (careful not to distort it from flat) and burnish the edge on. Use a lubricant while burnishing, and keep the burnisher square. GO SLOW!Once the burr is nearly done, you can tip the burnisher slightly to 'roll' the burr to a steeper angle, but use this technique with caution, you get a very aggressive edge very fast once you start tipping the burnisher, and it can crack or compromise the burr which requires a complete do-over. A jagged burr is useless.A perfect edge can usually be formed by holding the burnisher dead square and never tipping it. This is the way to go if it does the job for you. You'll need to experiment and learn the process, but once you learn it, you will have amazing control on just what kind of cutting edge you create. Keep trying the scraper and stop when you are happy with it's bite. You can always add more burr, but you can't take any back (easily). Don't go for a huge burr right off, often a smaller burr gives a better feel, especially on hard woods and knots (Yes, a scraper goes where no other wood blade dares to tread) Once tuned up, these are fine cutting tools you will use all the time.Besides wood, scrapers work great on polyethylene, polypro, UHMW, and even aluminum, especially for deburring cut edges. They're unbeatable for removing old finishes without contaminating the wood, and are great for cleaning surfaces to be glued. If you don't have a fancy burnishing tool around, you can use the shank of a drill bit, endmill (carbide works really well), or even the shaft of a good hard screwdriver. Round is standard, but different shapes produce different burrs. A 1/8 to 3/8" dia round (M2 M42 or Carbide) general purpose burnishing tool works well depending on the contour of the scraper and size of the burr desired. A nice new high quality 1/4” drill pressed flute in into a wooden handle makes a great scraper burnisher. Work the burnishing tool slowly, and don't try for a big burr in a hurry. The results of gradually building up the edge is a more even burr along the edge, thus an even cutting tool, like a freeform plane. Be careful when burnishing, you can be cut seriously from the edge.I wear my cut resistant gloves when working with or prepping a scraper. Taping the edges for storage protects the scraper and owner, and I like to tape the unused edges with cloth 1st-aid tape while using the scraper, that way, if you do slip, you don't get cut. A scraper cut is like a paper cut from steel paper.Enjoy the unique control a scraper gives you over the wood.

I'm new to using scrapers, but they are a great tool. It takes a little getting used to so that you don't scrape too deep in some areas and too shallow in others and end up with a dip, but once you get the hang of it, it's a great tool. It's perfect where a lot of sanding would be impractical. You will still need to do a tiny bit of sanding with a fine grit sandpaper to smooth out the wood for paint or stain, but it does save a lot of sanding time and paper.

This is my first time using card scrapers and I’m impressed with the results. This product is solid and made to last. It comes with instructions on how to sharpen them. I also received an email from the seller that informed me about getting a burnish rod for sharpening. They were delivered as expected and on time. I would buy again but I think they will last me for a long time. I would definitely recommend buying them though.

They are a bit rough edged but easy cleanup to get a good edge on. Better quality than the price would reflect. Pro quality? No but you’re not paying pro quality prices. Work great for us basement to intermediate carpenters.

I had never used a card scraper before I decided to purchase and see what they were all about. I am very happy I made that purchase, I'm now able to quickly remove small amounts of material and imperfections before planing or even final sanding.

The factory edges are ROUGH and require substantial work to rework them; expect to get rid of about the thickness of a dime from each edge. I spent an hour working one edge of one scraper with a file (as per their instructions) and I still have a ways to go... That is 4+ hours per scraper just to file them right... The edges are so rough that other reviewers mention using grinding wheels or Dremel tools because they are so bad. I might try that later, but I'm giving up for now; this shouldnt be this bad and can usually be cleaned up easily in a factory.Hindsight, I should have spent the extra $5-$10 for a set that came with somewhat clean edges. My time is worth way more than what these require to get rid of their crappy burred edge which isn't even straight.Also, the little pouch they came in was ripped at the seam right out of the bag. Not that I bought it for the pouch, but just shows you the general quality.Looking at the glass half full, the steel is probably good quality because it is a pain to file!

They're cheap, but the gooseneck card alone was all I needed... it performed adequately and without burnishing.

Utilizo es te producto para afinar las caras de la madera en lugar del cepillado o lija.