This Glass Break Detector can be covered in the presence of plate, tempered and laminated glass. Through audio frequency of glass break detection and infra-sound impact analysis in its full spectrum, it can recognize the characteristic sound and sent the signal and trigger the alarm security system when glass is breaking, ideal for rooms with blinds, glass case, patio door, glass windows etc Give you and your family more protection. Technical specifications: 1) Input voltage: 9V-12V 500mha DC (Included) 2) Operating current: 15mA (12V DC) 3) Alarm current: 25mA 4) Detecting range: 30ft (high sensitivity) or 15ft (low sensitivity) 5) Operating temperature: -10 to 60°C 6) Relay output: NC, 28V DC/80mA connection point 7) Frequency: 433Mhz 8) Dimensions: 92 x 67 x 26.4mm
B**N
IT COULD'VE BEEN A CONTENDER...(with apologies to Marlon Brando)
Let me start by saying that if I had an alternative, the 2 detectors I bought would have gone back to Amazon for a refund.My security system goal is to provide as much 'advance notification' as possible in the event of an intruder while I am home. So I have not only sensors on all doors and windows, but the screen doors as well. I also have 4 motion sensors in case they get past those detectors. I have two windows that are well-positioned (if you are a burglar), so I want breaking glass detection as well. In my opinion, the 2-3 extra seconds warning may be the difference between life and death.When they arrived, I was initially surprised that the detector portion and the power plug+cord were in separate boxes...2 different vendors. I figured each detector+power would be in the same box. That was the first of my surprises. The next surprise was the lack of screws/wall anchors in either box. C''mon...for a $50 product they can't include $.05 worth of mounting supplies? For what it's worth, the one mounting hole that requires a matching hole in the circuit board needs to be larger to accept screws with a slightly larger head...such as drywall screws. As a result, it's get both screws started, adjust the wires coming out the back, tighten the screws, then snap in the circuit board. It should have been designed to mount the plastic backside of the unit, snap in the circuit board, have an 'open top' cutout on the side (with matching cutout on the cover) to bring out the wires.By far my biggest surprise was the 'floating' circuit board inside the unit that contains the antenna wire and two wires to the 'motherboard'. It doesn't screw, click, snap, or fit anywhere inside other than floating above the area near the sensitivity adjustment thing. This leads me to believe that the 'base' unit, sans floating circuit board, is supplied by Paradox Security Systems (on the box), and PiSector adds the floating circuit board to make it work with their systems. It gets the job done. With a different 'floating' circuit board, the basic unit would likely work with any wireless system, or, judging from the presence of a 'relay' connector in the unit, it could be hard wired instead.As is apparent with all PiSector items I have in my system, it's obvious that the instructions need to be improved as well as rewritten by someone with English as their first language.Once I decided where to mount them and installed screw anchors, I had another surprise...the 12v power cord and antenna wire must come out the bottom of the unit (as delivered), not the side. So it's impossible to mount them flush to the wall. There's perhaps 3/8" stand-off to let the wires out. I can live with that...just not overly happy.Then came the nightmares! Note the plural. While mounting the first one, I managed to break the red wire off the 'floating' circuit board. Perhaps this was the result of too much flexing (wire movement) at its weakest point (the solder point) while mounting. Fortunately, I'm sufficiently experienced in small electronics soldering, so it was only a 10 minute delay to get my wire stripper, soldering iron and 60/40 solder and fix it. So I was more careful in mounting the 2nd unit. Unfortunately, on that one, the black wire broke off the floating circuit board. Got that fixed and while pulling the power cord and antenna through the bottom of the plastic case, I managed to unsolder (not break) the other end of the black wire on the back of the main board (see picture). That tells me the solder connection wasn't 'solid' enough in the first place. Perhaps it should be redesigned to wire the floating circuit board to the Normally Closed 'relay' screw posts instead.Would I buy more of these breaking glass detectors? NO. If and when PiSector comes out with battery powered detectors that are designed as a single board with battery, I'd be more than happy to purchase them! If I may suggest...enlarge the unit to accommodate a standard 9V battery and have a snap-in socket on the main board for various alarm system requirements. The antenna would be 'built in' around the outside of the plastic case and connected via the snap-in socket.
M**.
This could use better instructions in the box
This could use better instructions in the box, and I wish it was battery powered instead of having an ugly black cord to plug into an outlet. But after getting it paired to my PS03 system and plugging it in, I'm impressed by how it works. I have two large areas of glass at right angles to each other, and this sensor covers them both. I tested it by actually breaking glass in a plastic bag near both areas to make sure they were covered, and it triggered the alarm both times. So far, no false alarms either. After waiting a year for this to become available to work with my system, I'm pleased to have it up and running.
S**A
Works great and pretty sensitive
Works great and pretty sensitive. I have it close to my kitchen and it needs power supply. When I have it in home armed mode and I keep my porcelain cup down it triggers the alarm. Though the sensitivity can be adjusted i have left it as is.
D**N
Does what it claims.
It works. Went off during a thunderstorm.
S**W
Great unit.
Works as intended. Will react to any sudden high noise levels not just breaking glass.
E**A
wireless??....... ...
wireless?? .......... not 100% ... needs to be plugged into an outlet to work and if no outlet near the window you're out of luck, or you need to pay an electrician to run a wire and install a plug....
Trustpilot
4 days ago
1 month ago