3D Printer J Head Hot End Kit for 3.0 mm Filament - 0.35 mm, Resistor, Thermistor, Teflon Tubing -for 3D Printer

I bought this to replace a solidoodle stock extruder. This heats up faster and has way more accurate temperature reporting. It came with some clear teflon tubing, which is nice, but you should have some thermal paste to assemble it.

I tired this and it start smoking at 230 even with the fan on, so it make it hard to print ABS

I'm a professional modelmaker and prototype builder, and previously used service providers when a 3d printed part was necessary. Last year we got a Rostock Max kit for the office just to see if it would prove useful versus a professional 3d printer. While putting that together, I realized that I could build an even better one on my own, and from scratch.So I read all about how all metal hot ends were the way to go, and went down that path. Well, three different brands of all metal hot ends later, including an e3d hotend, all I had were frustratingly frequent jams, a $300+ hole in my pocket and a whole lot of wasted hours.Then, I switched to these particular hotends because they had such a good reputation on the forums. Let me tell you, it's like night and day difference. Not a single jam ever, the filament glides right through super smoothly and evenly. With the all-metal hotends, I had to limit retractions and also increase the temperature by 20 degrees to have any hope of not jamming. They also had a tendency to not extrude smoothly and would get a bit stuck, then surge, making blobs.This is just not an issue with the RP J-head. Super smooth, even flow, no jams ever. I have a giant printer with a 3 foot Bowden tube, and I have the retraction up to 14mm in certain cases and have no problems whatsoever. In short, I can rely on these in a daily business usage. I've been so happy, I now have three and will be getting a fourth. I've printed PLA, ABS, and Ninjaflex, all with no issues.If you need something reliable, look no further. Just remember to make any necessary changes to your firmware for the thermistor they include, and I would also suggest that you NOT high temp silicone your thermistor in place- just put a little foil in the hole, and zip tie the thermistor in. The thermistor is so small that the silicone will insulate it too much, and you'll get lower than actual temp readings, and possibly melt your brand new jhead!

I bought one of these when they were relatively new to the market. I've not had to take my extruder apart once since switching to it. I've run HIPS, T-glase, ABS, and PLA through it. Primarily ABS. No especially difficult maintenance/cleaning dances. Just purge materials when switching. I had a number of transactions with ReifsnyderB back in the day and he always gave solid customer service. I'm not sure what went wrong in the one guy's case. No cooling fan? Improper thermistor calibration? Bad filament? But... I'd build a new printer around any of these hotends with complete confidence.

This is was my first hot end for RepRap Prusa v2, using the old Wade's Gregg Frost extruder, which I've been using moderately over the past year, with 1 jam during that time due to cheap filament. Use a ceramic heat cartridge instead of the resistor. The results are fantastic - this is an easy to use and very, very reliable J-Head. Extremely easy to clean out with small gauge piano wire. Yesterday after a year of service, it jammed and failed. Not the hot end's fault, but faulty Z-axis end stop. The nozzle jammed into the build plate while extruding - the heater block broke off and now not usable, but this is a testament to my build, I guess, since otherwise no damage to the printer. I'm looking for an all metal hot end now, but may just go with this one again.

Been printing since January 2012 with this J-Head hot end. Never an issue, even with 240C temp for Nylon. It's been through countless spools of PLA and a half dozen ABS.