Motive Products1105 Rectangular Style 4.25" x 6.75" Universal Adapter, Compatible with Motive Products Power Bleeder Attachments

I have a 1986 Ford F150. It has the cast iron master cylinder. I rented a vacuum pump from the auto parts store to bleed my brakes with. It didn't work. A trickle of flow with lots of air bubbles that I think came from a not so great connection with the bleeder screw, despite using brake grease on the connection and trying various fittings that came with the pump.I saw in other reviews the recommendation to use C-clamps to secure the plate to the manifold. I'm glad that I saw that, because it was an easy set up. (I used 4 clamps. I put them on lightly at first, and gradually tightened in a crisscross pattern.) I tested its ability to maintain pressure for several minutes, prior to adding brake fluid to the container, and was thrilled when the pressure didn't drop at all.When it came time to bleed the brakes, the process proved to be quite simple. Open the screw, and a solid flow of the old brake fluid came out the tube I attached to the bleeder screw and ran into an empty brake fluid bottle. I rechecked the pressure after each wheel. The pressure dropped from 15 to 12. Still well within the desired range.I went from having virtually no brakes (after a leaking caliper was replaced) to a solid brake pedal. This tool was also great at reassuring me there weren't any other leaks in the system.Looking forward to getting the adapter for my C-Max and doing its brakes next.Highly recommended.

Worked great!

First, this thing is sturdy. It’s heavy and strong and has a very substantial rubber seal on the bottom side of it.But, I struggled with getting a proper seal using the J hooks and chains that they included. If you read other reviews you’ll see other people had the same trouble. So I went down to the local cheap Chinese tool place (rhymes with Arbor Rate) and grabbed some 2.99 wood clamps. Using them I was able to get a very good seal and the bleeding process went very well from that point.In the end I wound up with a good feeling pedal and no more air to be gotten out of the system. I’m happy. I guess I must have nearly 10 different adapters for my Motive Bleeder now. As a mechanic I’m comfortable with buying specialty tools. I’d buy it again, even knowing I’d have to use clamps to get a proper seal.

First, I am not a "reviewer" of products, I'm just a guy who has several muscle cars in all original shape. I purchased this to use on my 1970 Corvette. I replaced the calipers and anyone who knows Corvettes understands that it is difficult to remove all the air from the brakes when bleeding them. You can not use the vacuum ones, it pulls past the seals. This unit worked flawlessly, but you must use 2- 6 inch C-clamps (these will clear the plate that attaches to the master) to seal it to the master, forget the chains and J bolts it comes with they will not keep a tight seal . The unit sealed no problem, never lost pressure and I suspect the people who could not get it to seal were not setting it up properly. The delivery plate is large enough to cover the master on my cars. If you are going to do a total brake flush, make sure to buy 2 quarts of brake fluid, it is amazing at the amount of debris this unit will push through as opposed to just the usual pump the brakes and hold bleeding routine. I used my vacuum device to first empty the master cylinder and then started with clean fluid as is recommended. I don't know how I went this long without getting this tool, now I can flush any of my cars without needing a second person.

I originally bought the power bleeder ti do the brakes in my 2016 Focus ST. I was told because if the ABS there was no other way to bleed them. Although I eventually got them done, it was a nightmare. The cap wouldn't seal, and eventually caused the mc threads to deform. Made an utter mess.I didn't think it could be any worse, but I was wrong. I'm restoring a 1986 Fiero, and replaced all the brake components. I got the 1105 plate after measuring to make sure it was the right size.The gasket on the plate is not even close to the size they give. Its about 1mm too small on all sides to seal properly on the Fiero mc, even though I measured it and it should have worked. As best I can tell, this is an older u it, and the rubber seal has dried out and shrunk enough that it probabky wouldnt seal even if it was large enough. The j hooks and chain are a joke. All they did was deform the mc resevoir. After 2 hours of trying to get it to fit, seal, and not spray brake fluid every where, I gave up and tried some clamps to get it to seal. This worked until about 8-10 psi, at which point it completely blew out the seal and dumped/pumped a quart of brake fluid all over the inside of the trunk. According to MP, this isn't even enough pressure to make the system function properly. I'm completely done with this whole thing. I've bought some questionable tools and such before, but this is absolutely the worst 45$-no 200$ for the whole system, I've ever spent.

Motive Products 105 - what an amazing tool! I had trapped air in my brake system (1989 Jeep YJ). It is the tool that finally worked after 8 months of trying everything. I used c-clamps with the master cylinder plate adapter as others have suggested since it provided excellent clamping force that the hooks and chains might not have achieved. Also, the brass fittings might leak a little after tightening; we did not use a sealer. My spouse - she just maintained the pressure by pumping the unit while I bled the brakes. Upon the first try, I used a Mityvac on the bleeders in combination with the Motive Products unit but I kept seeing bubbles, so, I ceased using it in combination. After that, the Motive Products slowly got rid of the bubbles in the rear. When I got to the front brakes there were very few bubbles remaining in the system. After I bled the front, I rechecked the rear and front brakes. At that time, the flow out of the bleeders was finally voluminous, solid, constant, and bubble free - what an incredible relief!Here's what I bought and the methods that did not work:•3 new master cylinders (thought they were 'bad-out-of-the-box')•1 new brake booster (needed a replacement since my original unit was leaking air)•18 large bottles of brake fluid; would have only needed 2 if I had initially purchased Motive Products 105•replaced all brake lines with new copper nickel lines•installed new front callipers, new flex hoses, 4 new copper washers, and 2 new banjo bolts•had a mechanic install one of the master cylinders and the brake booster (servo) - he couldn't get the air out; brakes worked but pedal was extremely low due to trapped air•had a different mechanic pressure bleed the brakes - obviously, they used air only not fluid; brakes worked but the pedal was extremely low due to trapped air•bled and rebled the master cylinder; the rebleed with a Mityvac eliminated the few remaining bubbles in the master cylinder but still, the pedal went to the floor•tried speed bleeders; the brake fluid eventually dissolved the special thread coating•tried a pneumatic brake bleeder - didn't work - endless bubbles kept appearing•tried a Mityvac - didn't work - endless bubbles kept appearing•used an expensive hydraulic thread sealer on the bleeders - didn't stop the bubbles

Works great, I tried to bleed the brakes manually with my wife helping and could not get the air out after replacing a caliper. Watched the video on how to use this bleeder and it worked very well. And I did the work alone. Great product and would recommend to others

The Motiv Products power bleeders and accessories are tools I'll be able to keep in my toolbox for years. Good solid stuff, not junk..!!

I really liked the ease of use; once I tossed the useless chains and J hooks that are provided to be used to secure the plate to the master cylinder - awkward to use and almost impossible for me to get a good seal. I used a 6" C-clamp with a 3 1/2" clearance to hold the plate onto the master cylinder. Once I did that it was super easy to set up and bleed the brakes (1972 Corvette).I found it less messy when removing the plate if the master cylinder was level. For me that meant jacking the rear up to level it out. Some towels under the master cylinder go a long way to catch the drips. And of course, be super careful not to get brake fluid on any painted surfaces.

A bit tricky to get it sealed on the master cylinder, but works great.