Brownell Oxpho-Blue Professional Cold Blue Cream, 4 Fl Oz

Works surprisingly well. I purchased this for restoring the finish on vintage tools. I was so impressed on how well it worked, that I started applying it to my welding and machining projects. The finish comes out quickly and evenly. Very easily to apply. I have noticed it works even better if you preheat the metal prior to application. This is the only bluing I have used that doesn't result in a chalky looking finish.Clean the metal of all oil prior to use. I use acetone, but be careful as it will attack paint and plastics. Oil will create a barrier which will inhibit the bluing from fully treating the metal. I apply the bluing with an acid or small paint brush. Make sure to use gloves, as it will stain your fingers. Once covered, I do not let it sit. I continue working it into the metal with the brush, otherwise it usually dries before it can fully react. After a few minutes of working it in, it will start to turn a greenish color and get a thicker, almost soapy texture. Continue to work it in for another minute or two. In my experience, this is when it has reached it's full affect. If it starts to dry before it is finished, just add in a little more fresh bluing. Once completed, (approx 5-10 min) wipe off all residue. You can reapply for a darker color, although it will only darken slightly with each additional application. After I am happy with the color, I apply a coat of oil to seal the finish. I have never been able to get it "black", although I don't really like that look anyway. Some metals come out darker than others, but most of them all end up a glossy dark gun blue.

First thing I’ll say...read the directions. I took off the old finish with Birchwood Casey Rust and Blue remover, and it stripped it in about 15 mins. I then polished the barrel with degreaser and then alcohol, all with 0000 steel wool. I then applied a thick coat of bluing with a cotton swab, waited a min, then wiped t dry. 5 costs later, I buffed it with steel wool and it almost looks new! Whole process done in a few hours, but I didn’t take the time to polish he barrel to a mirror finish. Personally, I didn’t want the gun to look NEW, just needed the blue back for rust prevention and to refresh the look. I achieved the look I wanted in almost literally no time. After the first 2 coats, I noticed places where the bluing didn’t take, so o steel worked them and applied thick coats of bluing...thought those spots would look splotchy on the final product but they didn’t! I revived a family heirloom and I couldn’t be happier.Edit: I applied this to an old Rossi barrel hat I don’t wanna restore, but had a bad patch of bluing gone. I followed the instructions for touching up just to see if it worked...made sure it was smooth with steel wool, then started applying the blue. About 3 coats in, I could see the metal underneath the oil turning blue! I applied about 8-10 coats, and it patched the blue really well! AGAIN, I didn’t want or need it to be pristine, and if you look close you can see where that spot was. But it made sit look 100x better than it did, and will protect the metal. Would recommend 10/10.

A great product for touchup work - I have touched up a polish Mosin and a sten gun. Both of which look great

I purchased this product to re-blue an old Remington 870 12 ga. Wingmaster shotgun receiver and magazine tube. The receiver and magazine tube are soldered together so in my case it was best to refinish both parts at once. The issue with this is that the parts I re-blued are made from different types of metal. From the research that I've done I learned that the Receiver has a much higher nickel content than the magazine tube. I'm not an expert but I believe this is probably why the magazine tube's finish turned out a bit better than the receiver.I spent a lot of time prepping the parts with sanding, steel wooling, and using blue and rust remover, and degreaser. I gave the products four stars because of the lack of detailed directions that come with the product and vague instructions that I found from the manufacturer via Youtube.As other people mentioned in their reviews, heating the parts with a heat gun, hair dryer, in the oven... before re-bluing gives much better results. I think I applied about 6-7 coats, using steel wool between each coat. The parts that I blued were in pretty rough shape with scratches and rust. I think they look pretty good now and most people would have to look pretty closely to determine that the parts were refinished. This was my first time using a bluing paste and I think that it was much easier (and forgiving) than the liquids that I've used in the past.Hot bluing is best but if you're not trying to refinish a museum piece I think that you would be happy with this product. I just can't speak to how long the new finish will hold up to regular use in the field.

Ease of application and the great results such as uniform color without blotches made this a good choice to reblue my model 10-10. There's no need to rinse with water so you don't need to disassemble the gun. I degreased the area, heated it with blow dryer and followed the instructions although heating isn't necessary. I applied several applications to get the darkness I wanted. I didn't try to sand out the scratches since I wanted to save the remaining blue. I did a side by side comparison with another old model 10 with factory blue and I couldn't see any difference in cylinder's finish except for a few scratches on the reblued gun. I did the top of the strap which was down to bare steel from holster wear with similar results.The pics of the cylinder are before and after. You be the judge. Great product, price and arrived quickly in good condition.