3M Marine Restorer and Wax, 09005, 16.9 fl oz

I purchased a 6-year-old Class C RV 29 foot. It was a rental in good shape except apparently always parked in the sun. It had the chalky film on it. After washing it looked better however no real shine. Tried several samples of polishes and if they worked it was going to be a nightmare of labor. This stuff works and works amazing well. I did about a 3 foot by 3-foot area at a time. I use a cheap orbital polisher machine with cloth pad. Put the polish on the pad do not turn it on or you will be wearing the polish, also turning on the machine before putting it against the surfaces will cause the pad to go off center and fling off. With the machine off and polish on the pad put it up to the surface to be restored and move it around to spread the polish. With the pad against the surface turn the machine on. Polish the 3x3 area I would go over it maybe 5 or 6 times. Setting the machine down and go over the area with a microfiber cloth. Instructions says to polish it until gone. I found using to machine till it is gone is a lot of extra work as the pad will end up with polish trapped on it and takes forever for it to start to shine or be as they say “gone”. I finish by hand it with the microfiber easy wiping and within a few wipes you see the shine. Using the microfiber is effortless.

This wax is absolutely amazing. This is a very old Sea-Doo and I have tried to get the oxidation off before and as you can see the left side is without the wax and the right side is with the wax. Super simple to use wipe it on until it fades away and all that oxidation is gone.

I have a couple of old Sea Doo's that I purchased a few months ago. Lots of oxidation on the gel coat. After a bunch of research, I decided to the the 3M Marine Restorer and Wax. I was worried about using this product by hand, but it worked great! I used a terry applicator from Wal-Mart. The applicator came with a handle that has a Velcro like mount. Four dollars for five pads and a handle. The handle helped get a little leverage on the pad. A little bit of elbow grease and the chalking came right off. The hand applicator helped me keep away from the graphics. The product left a smooth wax coat. I will hit it again with a marine wax to really make it pop before they go in the waterYou really don't need to buy an expensive polisher to apply this product! Couldn't be happier!Amazon had the best price. You can buy this product at West Marine, Cabela's, and Gander Mountain for more money.

I used this on a fiberglass boat with a red paint job that was fading white due to the sun/salt water. It definitely brings the red color back and eliminates about 85% of the fading white color. I had to go over a few areas 2 times. It requires a lot of muscle if you don't have an electric buffer. For the price, this stuff works. if you want to bring your paint job back to brand new factory condition, you will need to buy a more expensive multi step product. But for around $20 with a one step solution, it did a solid job.

So, let me start by saying I've never used an orbital polisher, or polishing compound. There was a learning curve. Like 1/2 a boat learning curve. The first 1/4 of a 24' boat took 4 hours, the other 3/4 (and going back over the first 1/4) took about 4 hours. But WOW what a difference in the before and after. Removed the white chalky oxidation and water spots from years of neglect on this boat. Let me share my revelations and experience:1. I used a variable speed 10A polisher I got for about $40. It had all the power I needed. This could never have been done by hand, or with a random orbital polisher. I ran at 1000 RPM until I got the hang of it, then realized 1500 was way better at reducing the grit size and seeing better results.2. I wish I had shaken the bottle better before I started. I felt like I wasted some time in the beginning with product that was slightly separated.3. I used foam pads on the polisher. I went through about 3 pads during polishing the 24' boat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVDH437/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MvyvDb3CXT6K74. I worked in small sections. Rather than doing vertical sections of boat, I found it better to do horizontal sections as they contain less contour. Any time your section is all on the same plane or curve, it makes your technique easier.5. I worked in the shade, but it was August in Texas so it was hot as hell. I tried to be careful not to let the product dry in globs. If they dried, I needed to lightly mist with water to work them. I'm talking spray bottle here, not hose.6. I actually found that it worked better to apply the polish to the boat in dots/dollops across the section, then work with the polisher. My results weren't as good when I applied polish directly to the foam pad.7. I did a TON of research on technique and how to do this. In the beginning, I was using quite a bit of water, even tried moistening the foam pad at one point. What a mess! The product was much less effective, went slinging everywhere, and generally was impossible to work with. I ended up with what I though was dried product that just wouldn't come off, but later realized it was water spots that the diluted product could not work properly -- remember when I said I went over the first 1/4 again once I knew what I was doing? I finally realized that a fine mist of water from a spray bottle across the dollops just before applying the polisher is perfect.8. Keep the polisher moving in your section. The higher rotations made quick work of the polishing compound, spreading the grit around as it became smaller and smaller did the best work. When it was so small it was basically dust, I gave it a wipe with a microfiber cloth and there was the shine!9. I had no problem with decals or stickers. One of my registration stickers pulled up a little bit, but the other was fine. All of my Hull Id Numbers were fine, no damage. I was careful in these areas though and didn't work them too hard.10. I did wash the boat first, I guess I should have started with that bit of info.11. I followed up with Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine Wax and the boat looks Amazing! Hopefully if I keep it waxed, it will continue to shine and won't get oxidized like that again.12. A 24' bowrider didn't even use up a whole bottle. Maybe a half a bottle? I did some pretty good product wasting for that first 1/4 of the boat, so I'd guess 1/2 of the 16oz bottle would have been appropriate.13. I didn't know what oxidation level my boat had, but now I'd describe it as light/medium. It's worth mentioning that I didn't do the underside of the hull. The oxidation is MUCH worse there, and probably needs wet sanding. It's also awkward as all get-out to reach, so I skipped it for now.I think the pics are pretty self explanatory. I tried to show my tools and progress. Hope my experience in bumbling through is helpful to someone else!!

I don't believe this is any better than other products of its kind on the market. I does the job just fine but is not a good value due to the price. I think you would be better off using a polishing compound and an non organic wax like NuFinish than this product, especially if you are going to do the job by hand. My job (RV roof) had to be done by hand because of wiring and solar panel mounting and it was very hard to break this product down by hand. The polishing park work great cleanup the oxidized gel coat but the wax part was disappointing and I went back over it with NuFinish.