Anderson MetalsBrass Garden Hose Fitting, Connector, 1/2" Barb x 3/4" Male Hose

There are extremely well-made machined brass, one piece, ultra-thick fittings that when used with a good genuine rubber washer and a good worm-gear stainless steel clamp will create a leak proof garden hose, with a new fitting that is many times better than the hose fittings that come with brand new garden hoses.I have used maybe a half a dozen or so replacement fittings in the past, made by other manufacturers and of different designs. None of them was even close to this one with respect to the thickness of the fitting, its quality, durability, and effectiveness. .The hexagonal nut allows you to easily tighten this fitting with a wrench - a fixed wrench is best to avoid marring or rounding this nut but regular pliers or a screw driver can be used as well.This fitting may last you a lifetime with only the rubber washers (and possibly the worm-gear clamp) needing to be replaced periodically..Washers and the clamp do not come with this fitting. You have to buy them separately.Whenever I buy a new hose, I will cut off the original male fitting that comes with the hose and replace it with this Anderson fitting.It is that good!Lowe's has a male garden hose fitting that is made of solid brass, but it's not as heavy and thick as this one - especially the barbed end.Remember to use quality genuine rubber washers and a good stainless steel worm-gear clamp of the appropriate diameter (such as a range of 5/16" to 7/8")It may be a good idea to warm the cut end of the hose in hot (but not boiling) water to soften it to allow this fitting to slide in more easily. If necessary, a bit of soap in the hot water may help as well.Make sure that you cut the old fitting on your old hose 'square' so that an equal amount of hose covers the barb on all sides of this Anderson fitting.Also make sure that the fitting's barbed end is fully slid into the hose.And make sure that the compression worm gear band is tightened sufficiently around the hose covering the barbed end of the fitting. .If for some reason, the new fitting is leaking, make sure you have a quality washer in good condition (a new genuine rubber washer is best) in the female fitting you are screwing this male fitting into. Also try loosening the moving the worm gear compression band to a new position on the barbed end of this fitting and re-tighten securely.Note that this fitting is made for garden hoses but not for potable (or drinking) water.Also note that these are 'male' fittings only. .Anderson Metals also makes a two piece female brass garden hose fitting that Amazon sells. The Amazon reviews for that product are not as good as for the 'male' fitting, but I am willing to order one and see for myself what the quality is like. Note that the female fitting is not a one piece fitting but has to be in two pieces (with the part that connects to a male fitting being allowed to 'swivel') to allow the fitting to be tightened without the hose twisting and getting 'kinked'.P.S. Added June 16, 2018I have received, used, and reviewed the Anderson female fitting which is not nearly as well made. The product listing and review is at:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PKMUH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews___________________________________________:Additional Comments and Warnings - June 19, 2018I tried this fitting on a second hose today and ran into some problems. The fitting kept on leaking no matter where I placed the worm gear clamp, no matter how much I tightened it, no matter how careful I was in cutting of the end of the hose square.The hose was leaking from where the top of the cut hose met the new fitting.After fiddling with the hose and this fixture for awhile, I realized what the problem was. The hose was not perfectly cylindrical inside but had a single longitudinal ridge that ran the length of the hose and projected about 3/16" into the bore, as well as being about 3/16" wide. This ridge prevented the fitting from being wrapped securely by the inside of the hose, with equal pressure from all sides, and was the cause of the leak.This ridge caused a visible bulge in the hose where the barbed end of the fitting lay inside the hose, and to the left and right side of this ridge, there were large gaps between the fitting and the hose..When I looked at how the manufacturer of the hose attached the original fitting, since the same problem with this longitudinal ridge would exist, I noticed that the manufacturer had stripped away the last 1-1/4" or so of longitudinal ridge from the inside of the hose, leaving a cylindrical bore in the hose, which allowed the original manufacturer's fitting to fit securely.Using a thin bladed, straight slot screwdriver, I was able to peel away the longitudinal ridge away from the wall of the hose at the cut end of the hose for a distance of about 1-1/4 inches, and then used a needle nose plier to to sever this ridge and pull it out, leaving the inside of the hose smooth and cylindrical.When I reattached the Anderson fitting and the worm drive clamp, there were no leaks. .I think this ridge inside the hose would need to be removed regardless of what type of fitting you used and it's not a problem specific to this Anderson fitting. .Apparently, this ridge is designed to reinforce the hose, but even the manufacturer had to remove the last 1-1/4 inches of the ridge to get the original fitting to fit properly without leaking.Note that the first hose I had used these fittings on (for which I had no leaks) also had longitudinal ridges inside the hose, but these were much smaller, maybe about 1/32" high and wide, and evenly spaced. These much smaller and evenly spaced ridges were not a problem and I was able to create a leak proof seal using these fittings, without removing the ridges at the end of the hose. .Note, too, that the worm gear clamps that you buy need to heavy duty and of good quality which may not be so easy to find. The worm gear clamps that I originally purchased stripped when I tried torquing them and were useless even though I paid about $1 each for them.With these clamps I initially purchased, I was unable to tighten the clamps to create a leak proof seal and had to replace these clamps with heavier duty ones that could be torqued without stripping.I highly recommend clamps made by ABA (or other brands of comparable quality) which are designed to withstand being torqued without the worm gear mechanism.stripping.

This is a close review to the female counter part to this item. These are solid brass and I believe will last me the rest of my life. I compare these brass fixtures to aluminum hose repair parts that I had bought at Home Depot last October (2014). I did not like aluminum but HD no longer carried brass. Silly me: I should have waited and searched to buy brass fittings on Amazon instead of the aluminum ones (which were not low cost too boot). Well, from last October to the following March, the aluminum fittings had corroded and essentially "welded" themselves to my brass hose bibs and good thing I checked and removed them when I did as it was very difficult to get them off after only a few months. I checked and sure enough the same sort of thing happened with EVERY aluminum fitting I had bought, including hose repair parts AND quick disconnect couplings that I had on 6 different hoses !!! The aluminum fitting (a few months old) were all removed and GIVEN away (to charity). Here's what happened: the dissimilar metals involved (i.e. the aluminum fixtures and the brass hose parts) when situated in a conductive medium (hard water) created a "galvanic" effect where molecules from one metal type (aluminum) migrated to the other metal - brass, just like a metal plating process. The effect of the molecular migration was to pit and corrode the aluminum parts which became "welded" to the brass parts. The only way to avoid this sort of thing is to use metals of similar nature. A scale known as the Electromotive Series ranks the electrical "distance" of metal chemistry and those that are distant from each other on the scale, have an electrical potential difference that facilitates the galvanic plating mentioned above. By using brass against brass, (instead of aluminum against brass) the electrical distance is brought close to zero and so no plating effect will occur. You know, there is an old saying I heard once and it has stuck with me over the years. I don't know who to credit but it goes something like this: "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."These solid brass fixtures may cost a little more but finding them on a store shelf has become more difficult. If I had bought brass to begin with, I would not have wasted what I spent on the aluminum fittings. I feel I will not need to replace these brass items probably for the rest of my life. I would suggest applying a small amount of appropriate lubricant when you assemble these to other (brass) parts, and live happily ever after.

Are you tired of having your garden hoses ruined because someone stepped on the male fitting and bent it out of shape?Why not solve that problem forever by discarding the flimsy fitting that came with your hose and replacing it with one of these solid brass fittings from Anderson Metals? The cost is reasonable, installation is simple, and once installed, you can run over one of these things with a car and it'll still hold its shape. I was so impressed with the strength, performance and quality of this fitting that I subsequently installed one on each of my garden hoses. That was almost 3 years ago and I'm still satisfied with how well these things are working.Anderson also makes a female counterpart to this fitting, and while I've also installed them on my garden hoses, I haven't yet tried running over them with a car. But I'm satisfied with their performance too, and yes, they're also available from Amazon.As an added bonus, at least for me, the barbs on these fittings seem to be sharp enough to obtain an adequate "bite" on the inside of my hoses so as to not require the use of external hose clamps to keep them from popping off when under water pressure. I love the nice, clean appearance this offers.

This is being used to connect a huge water tank to our RV when being used on the north forty. I’ve used others that had sharp burrs from the machining process, but this is actually machined, not cast or pressed. It’s a good solid piece of brass!