Mann Filter Fuel Filter - WK730/1

⁃ I purchased this fuel filter as part of the process of revamping and overhauling my 2000 VW Jetta 2.0 AEG. I was replacing the fuel pump and decaying fuel hoses when I decided to replace the fuel filter as part of replacing the fuel system. My VW (manual transmission) has 260,000 miles and a fuel filter change was overdue. I have decided to continue driving it as I have replaced quite a bit of parts and it still drives well. When I removed the old fuel filter, it had dirt in the fuel, meaning that a change was overdue. I also bought the corresponding Bosch 0280160557 Fuel Pressure Regulator and the fuel filter bracket/clamp (see below)⁃ Looking at the pictures, the parts look similar. The original VW fuel filter feels heavier and sturdier, but I have realized that aftermarket parts are just not as sturdy as original parts. This one has worked well though.⁃ On a scale of 1-10 where 1 is replacing a fuse and 10 is replacing an engine, I would rate this a 5-6. It is not hard to change it yourself. It is just that the space underneath the car shall have you writhing if you don't have a professional car lift and are using wheel stands and a wheel jack to lift the car.⁃ I would recommend this filter as part of revamping the fuel system. Below are instructions/directions on how to replace the fuel filter, assuming you are doing it yourself.⁃ Before you start the job, save yourself time (and aggravation) by purchasing the Fuel filter Bracket/clamp for Volkswagen part # (N-024-522-6) or your corresponding vehicle's fuel filter bracket. Since you will be unscrewing an old clamp/bracket with a (most likely) rusty screw, it will be prudent to spend about $4 and use a new clamp/bracket. Also, removing the screw will most likely damage the top of the clamp/bracket screw, so using a new clamp/bracket is a no brainer! If you can or you have time and are planning on doing this, spray some PB blaster penetrator liquid on the screw a day or so before so that it can unscrew easily.⁃ Relieve the fuel system pressure. Unhook battery terminals and the fuse that controls fuel pressure (fuse #28 on a 2000 VW Jetta I think, check your Haynes or other manual) Use the wheel jack and lift the vehicle on the rear passenger side. Place some vehicle jack stands to protect you just in case the whee jack fails. Make sure you have adequate space to work around the fuel filter. The fuel filter is located next to the fuel tank.⁃ To remove the plastic fuel clamps from the metal filter, check carefully at some indentation that you press/depress to unclamp the fuel lines from the filter. You can use your fingers to depress the fuel line clasps. The fuel line clamps/clasps are black in color. Place rugs under the fuel lines, basically area under the fuel filter as you shall spill some fuel in the process. Remove the fuel filter clamp completely. Unclamp the white fuel line from the plastic clamp (that will slide out with the fuel filter clamp) and pull out the fuel filter. Have a plastic container ready to hold your old fuel filter as it has fuel and dirt in it.⁃ On the new clamp/bracket, apply a dab of anti-seize so that it's easier to remove the screw the next time (hopefully there won't be a next time) Completely unscrew the clamp as you will need to run it in a metal bracket slot where the old bracket ran through. This metal bracket slot holds the clamp, which in turn holds the filter. Once you have run it through the slot, align the sides of the clamp and tighten slightly.⁃ Push the fuel filter (and plastic fuel line holder which is curved to the shape of the fuel liner and align them) into the hole of the bracket. The fuel filter has arrows that point to the 'front' of the car and it has one side that has a 'lip' on it. This side with the lip is the one that 'goes to' or faces the front and is next to the blue, black and white fuel lines that are at a right angle. The side without a lip is at the back and only has the black fuel line that goes into it.⁃ Once you have tightened it a bit and aligned the fuel filter to the 'lips' or edges of the metal bracket that holds the clamp that holds the filter, you can then insert the fuel line clamps into the fuel filter lines/openings. Make sure that the fuel line clamps are securely fastened into the filter as a non-secure connection shall result in fuel leaks.⁃ Once the black fuel line clamps are in, tighten the screw of the fuel filter bracket completely. Once it is completely tight and flush with its metal bracket, insert the white fuel line onto the plastic black bracket/clamp that you have aligned to the metal fuel filter bracket. You may have unhooked a parking brake hook to provide you with easier access to the filter. Re-hook it and then reconnect the battery and return the fuse #28 for the fuel pressure/fuel pump. Put the ignition on (don't start the car) and activate the fuel pump. Check underneath to see if there are signs of fuel leakage. If not, go ahead and remove the jack stands and wheel jacks, remove the wheel chocks and start the car. Hopefully you have trouble-free driving for a while.

This went on my 05 VW Beetle 1.8T. Of all the work I was doing at the time, this is what I dreaded the most because I don't have a lift, and I've never been able to change a fuel filter without getting gas all over me. Plus, I had read several horror stories about the connecting clips that VW used. Turned out to be simple and I had no issues at all. Great filter, OEM quality and much cheaper here at Amazon.

Nice filter. Does the job

Arrived promptly in good condition. Mann fuel and oil filters are the only ones to use on european cars. This is an exact fit for my 2001 audi tt quattro 225. It fits a variety of Audi VW cars. Please be careful with the fuel line fitting when removing the old filter. There is a button on them that when properly located and engaged will pop the lines off easily. Don't pry the lines off. Also, please be careful with the star clips when removing the belly pan, you really need to get under there and pry the tabs back, do not just force the pan down or the tabs will break off.

Easy to install.

Finding German car parts for low prices isn't easy. Audi uses MANN products for things like their oil, cabin air, and fuel filters, so it was nice to find this on Amazon for fairly cheap. I got the WK 730/1, which is the OEM part (part# 1J0201511A) for 2002-2003 A4s. Before ordering though, know that Audi changed filter types a couple times with the B6 A4, starting midway in 2003, then again in 2005.Based on a lot of research, it appears that the VIN#s before 8E-3-500000 in 2003 use this (2 port, 1 inlet/1 outlet) type. VINs 8E-3-500000 up to Vin 8E-5-065000 in 2005 use a 4 port, 2 inlet/2 outlet type that has a pressure regulator (and costs about 3x as much). After that, they have a 3 port one. So make sure that you know which type your car has. You can always jack up your right rear wheel, take the small undercarriage liner off and see for yourself if you have any doubt. The Audizine website also has a great DIY for changing out your filter, just search for it. It's a 30 minute job.

Perfect fit for a 2006 Audi A8. The OEM filter I replaced at 75k was Bosch, but I'm a really big fan of Mann air and oil filters so I went with the same name for my fuel filter. Easy install and perfect fit which I did at the same time as my timing belt change. Awesome product!

As others have stated, this does not fit my 2004 (manufactured 6/2004) Jetta 2.0L, BEV motor even though Amazon and O'Reilly Autoparts say it does. I believe since I have a late 2004 year car that they started using a different filter found in later MKV and MKVI cars. I guess I have more of a 2004.5 car.Anyway, the correct filter for my car was the Mann-Filter WK 69/2 Fuel Filter. That filter is smaller in overall size and has 2 inlet ports and 1 exit port.