JD Moon 4 or 5 String Bridge Saddles Heavy Duty Individual Bass Bridge Tailpiece Parts (Black)

I'm not sure if the coating is durable enough but the construction and the weight are solid.

I bought these to convert a six string "crossover" bass to a five string. They are nicely made and finished zinc alloy castings that worked quite well for my application. They are a top loading design which does not require you to thread the strings through holes at the bridge end so string replacements and swaps a quick and painless. They are individual pieces so each string's bridge can be mounted as needed to give you the intonation range you need. The height adjustment range was more than adequate for my application. Everything about them was just perfect for my modification project.

Beautifull solid bridge components. However to transfer the hole location onto the body of the guitar, perfectly in line with the center line and string directions, a small routing (or drawing) template would come in very handy.

I installed these on an Ibanez Gio GSR-105EX, an entry level five string specifically purchased as a project/beater bass. A functional bass, nothing great in tone or playability, in other words.Single string bridges are usually about $20-$40 per string, these were only $20 for a set of five, perfect for a $199 bass. There are some minor spots where the chrome didn't take (seen as copper color in the picture I've included), the castings are acceptable for this level but not the kind of thing I'd put on a custom build or any bass above $500. They've got plenty of weight, good adjustment range, and are a decent copy of an Ibanez Mono-Bridge II.These aren't a "drop-in" replacement by any means. You need to know how to measure for bridge placement, have some intermediate woodworking skills, a drill press or router (or both), and they won't fit all bass bodies easily since they require more length than a traditional bent plate bridge base.There are no instructions or templates included, just a bag of the bridges and screws. I had to make a drilling template by resizing the blueprint picture from the Amazon listing to match the size, printed it onto card stock, then cut out an oval slot to fit the string catch, and a circle for the locating nub. Had to guess at sufficient depth to allow the string ball room to drop in and slide into the retainer. Look up "Ibanez bass guitar manual" and you'll see the instructions for the Mono-Bridge II this is based on, it'll help. Posted a picture to this review for reference.When setting up the bridge placement, there are half a dozen favorite methods luthiers use (do some research first if you've never done this). You're not only putting the bridge at the end of the scale length, you have to allow room compensate for intonation, align the strings with the taper of the neck, and space the strings correctly, all much more difficult with single string bridges since you're aligning each one. I set the intonation on the factory bridge, taped off the whole top of the bass, traced the strings' individual paths for reference, and marked where the highest and lowest strings' saddles aligned.The Ibanez Gio/SR style bodies are very small, and barely had enough room to fit these bridges when set far enough to intonate the B and E strings. Probably not an issue on a big Fender style body, but you'll need to plan for that. I ended up setting them as close to the rear edge as possible without an obvious overhang, and still had to take the saddle tension springs out of the B-E-A string bridges (replaced with stacked rubber grommets), and cut the D-G string springs in half in order to get enough travel for intonation. The B-string is at maximum travel and still just a couple of cents short of perfect, but there was no more room to shift on the body (see picture).All that done, strung up, intonated, and...wow! Huge improvement in sustain, clarity, tone...this bass is just a bargain basswood body, the stock bridge was Ibanez's basic B-15, and out of the box it was difficult to play. Had ok tone for an entry level but somewhat dead and wooden, not enough sustain for clean 16th notes, and no definition on the B-string.With the new single bridges it's completely opened up. 16th triplets, chords, B-string notes are clear and have harmonics, good overtones fretted up to around 7-8th fret. Now it's honestly got an unplugged tone similar to an $1,800 neck through 1994 Pedulla Thunderbass ET-5 I used to own (obviously pickups aren't the same!)Totally converted me to single string designs, I'm either going to look for new basses with them, or upgrade old ones. I'd consider this brand for anything entry level, like Fender's Squire, Ibanez Gio, etc. or other under $500 bass. Anything more than that and Hipshot or Schaller's singles are more appropriate, but this is a GREAT bargain for an inexpensive bass.

Lots of work installing these; they solved multiple issues on my 5 string Dean bass.